Temperament Scoring

Up until now I’ve just judged my rats’ temperament by the overall feel of them, but the other day I found a grading system for temperament and decided to write a similar one to use on my own rats and future babies. (Feel free to use/modify it as you like!) A lower score suggests a rat with a less ideal temperament and a higher one suggests a calmer, more laid back rat.

Test 1: Hands
Put your hand in a limp fist in the rat’s cage and observe what it does.

  1. Runs and hides and does not come out, or bites
  2. Ignores you, does not approach
  3. Cautiously sniffs but does not touch your hand, or touches but uses more teeth than you’d like
  4. Touches/sniffs but backs off of you move your hand
  5. Touches/sniffs/licks, does not react in a nervous manner if you move your hand

(Sorry for the rubbish quality, but here are a bunch of 5s)

 

Test 2: Scruff
Pick the rat up by the scruff, hold for 5 seconds.

  1. Lots of squirming, squeaking and general uncomfortable signs
  2. Less vigorous squirming which may start after a second or 2
  3. Squirms for a second or 2 and then stops and holds still
  4. Holds still
  5. Tucks back feet into tummy, is limp, relaxed, and still

(Azriel, Mouse and Otter: 4.5, 4.5 and 5)

Test 3: Fingers
Poke a finger through the bars of the rat’s cage and observe how the it reacts (skip this if you know you’ll get chomped though!)

  1. Biting (not gentle nibbles, actual biting)
  2. Runs away/does not engage with you
  3. Runs away at first but then comes back to have a look
  4. Sniffs fingers cautiously
  5. Licks fingers/grabs with paws/gentle mouthing

Test 4: Upright hold
Wrap your fingers around the rat’s shoulders and hold it upright with its back feet either dangling or on the palm of your other hand.

  1. Vigorous wriggling and trying to get away without giving up
  2. Wriggling, but not as committed to escaping as a 5
  3. Mild wriggling, or stays still for a few seconds but then tries to get away
  4. May wiggle for a few seconds but then stays still
  5. Stays still and relaxed, does not mind what is happening

Test 5: Lie Back
Hold the rat in two hands and lie them on their backs between your hands with fingers holding them in position.

  1. Vigorous wriggling and trying to get away without giving up
  2. Wriggling, but not as committed to escaping as a 5
  3. Mild wriggling, or stays still for a few seconds but then tries to get away
  4. May wiggle for a few seconds but then stays still
  5. Stays still and relaxed, does not mind what is happening

(Azriel can be a 3, 4 or a 5 depending on how silly/sleepy he’s feeling)

 

Test 6: Noise
Clap loudly and watch the rat’s reaction.

  1. Jumps, runs around, climbs walls (general panic that does not stop within 10 seconds)
  2. Jumps of freezes and then finds a place to hide, does not come out within 30 seconds
  3. Jumps of freezes but recovers when touched, distracted, or reassured
  4. Freezes, but only for a few seconds and recovers without interference
  5. May freeze or pull back for a second but then comes over to investigate

Test 7: Unfamiliar area
Place the rat somewhere it hasn’t been before (either in another room of the house or, preferable, outside somewhere you know it will be safe)

  1. Jumps, runs around, climbs walls (general panic that does not stop within 30 seconds)
  2. Searches out hiding places or huddles in a corner
  3. Becomes clingy, looks to a person or another rat for comfort
  4. Cautiously explores
  5. Confidently explores

 

Test 8: Food manners
Offer the rat a small amount of food (try with both wet and dry food) from your fingers.

  1. Bites on purpose (not because it is mistaking your fingers for snacks)
  2. Takes the food carelessly biting your fingers in the process, or runs away scared
  3. Sniffs the food but may be too nervous to take it, or snatches and runs
  4. Cautiously, but gently takes the food
  5. Confidently comes up and gently takes the food

Test 9: New rats
In a neutral area, introduce the rat to another of the same sex and observe its reaction (to make this a fair test it’s better to try this with a new rat that you know plays nice with others)

  1. Attacks or acts extremely aggressively
  2. Puffs up, crab walks, acts defensively but does not actually attack
  3. Runs to a person for comfort, or runs away
  4. Sniffs and then ignores the new rat
  5. Sniffs and takes friendly interest in the new rat

Test 10: New people
Get someone that the rat has not previously meet to handle it. They should try picking it up, patting it, allowing it to sniff their hands etc.

  1. Attacks or acts aggressively
  2. Is excessively wary and mistrusting, struggles to get away when held
  3. Acts somewhat wary, wont approach the new person but allows them to pick it up
  4. May be a little wary but allows the person to touch and pick it up without resisting
  5. Sniffs and takes friendly interest in the new person, is relaxed and trusting when picked up

The maximum a rat can score is 50. A nice, friendly rat should score at least a 4 in most categories though there are some (like lying back) that are harder for most rats to score highly in.

Toilet Training Rats

Rats are pretty clean animals, and are usually easy to toilet train.

If you are planning on toilet training rats you’ve already had for a while you’ve probably noticed they do the majority of  poo in one or two areas of their cage. Take note of the most popular poop spot.

Now you need to find a suitable litter tray. There are a few types commonly used. Some people like to use shallow plastic rectangular containers, like cat litter trays. These work well if you have a big cage with lots of room for them, or if you have a large group of rats. Other people use corner trays with grills on the top that the rats stand on. This stops the rats that feel that they have to rearrange everything from scooping litter out and getting it everywhere. We use corner trays without the grill because our ratties are mostly pretty tidy. Most pet shops should have a suitable tray (we get ours from animates), but you could also make one out of any shallow, easily cleanable container.

The next thing you will need is litter. This stops poo sticking to the bottom of your tray and makes everything considerably less smelly. We use recycled paper cat litter but you could also use aspen shavings or shredded paper. Be careful that the litter you choose will not harm your rats if they nibble on it – clays and crystals are not a good idea. Also make sure the litter is different from your bedding/whatever you put on the floor of your cage. If you’re using aspen as your bedding your rats will not differentiate between the ground and their toilet if there is aspen in their litter tray too.

A pee stone is an optional extra. This is a large-ish flat rock that you place in the litter try that most rats will choose to pee on instinctively. It’ll also make your tray less easy for boisterous rats to tip over.

Before you add the litter tray give your cage a thorough clean and add a few poos to your new ratty toilet. Then put the tray in the most popular poop spot. Some rats will figure out the new system straight away, but most will take a while before they’re using it 100% of the time. The key to getting them fully trained is consistency. You need to move any poo that’s in the wrong place to the litter tray at least once per day. It can help to increase your cleaning a bit too, so that the only area that smells like a toilet is the toilet.

Be patient, most of my rats took a few weeks to really get it. Toilet training is definitely worth it, it makes cage cleaning a lot easier and you can leave the cage much longer between cleanings as you can just change the litter and get rid of all the poo.